Volume 31, 1978



Hew Zealand fflplne Journal 1978

Volume 31

ISSN 0110 1080


Beggars' Banquet Pete Giles 4
The Alpine Year
North Island Brin Williman and Maurice Conway 10
Mount Cook Hugh Logan 11
Arrowsmiths/Arthurs Pass Regions Lindsay Main 15
Aspiring Region Ken Hyslop 16
Darrans Geoff Gabites 17
New Zealand Mountaineering
The Darrans in Winter Geoff Gabites 22
A Short Walk in the Darrans Murray Jones 23
Attrition in the Darrans Nick Edge 26
Wake of the Flood Graeme Roxburgh 27
Abel Jansen Face of Kotuku Murray Jones 28
West Face of Unicorn Nigel Miller 30
Round Elie Again John Nankervis 33
As You Like It Austin Brookes 35
Stairway to Heaven — Sefton's North Ridge John McCallum 38
East Face of Malte Brun Resuscitated John Nankervis 39
Mt. Hutton — Highest Peak in the Liebig Range Gerald Nanson 40
A Day to Remember Tom Barcham 42
Up'ards Stanley Holloway 43
Skis on Aspiring Peter Hillary 44
Pembroke Traverse Bev Noble 45
Remarkable Skiing Alan (AJ) Knowles 47
Ballad of Sam Turner Jane Thomson 50
Overseas Mountaineering
Overseas News Colin Monteath 52
Changabang Mal Noble 54
What I Done While I was Away Nick Banks 58
Ocean to Sky — Ed Hillary's Indo-N.Z. Ganga jet-boat expedition, Aug.-Oct., 1977 Jim Wilson 60
Up Nar Parbat Without a Pith Helmet Murray fones 66
New Zealanders in Antarctica Colin Monteath 68
New Zealand Earth Science Research in Antarctica Malcolm Laird 69
Victoria University of Wellington in Antarctica 1974-1978 Harry Keys 76
Display Material for Canterbury Museum Margaret Bradshaw 79
North Victoria Land John Bradshaw 81

Climbs in the Royal Society Range Gary Ball 82
New Zealand — A Closer Look
The Cook Valley — South Westland. An historical perspective Dave Bamford 84
New Zealand's Hardiest Native Butterfly Annette Walker 90
Life Members:
Jim Rose Rod Syme 93
Dr. Lindsay Stewart Dick Wood 93
Earle Riddiford Norman Hardie 94
Ball Hut — Shelter from the Storm John Wilson and Junee Ashurst 95
North Face of Mount Aspiring 103
Current New Zealand Mountain Literature Brian McKean 104
Katie Gardiner Annette Walker and Michael Benn 109
Vic Williams Jim Wilson 116
H. W. 'Bill' Tilman Philip Temple 121
Edward Owen Dawson Jim Gilkison 124
Graham Norman Ellis Roland Rodda 125
Patrick Joseph Begley John Rippon 126
David Merrick Graham Elder 127
Jose Seymour Doreen Urquhart 128
Norman Hardie 128
Donald William Foster C. E. Collins 129
Bruce Robertson Paul Powell 130
Fred Chapman Lud Mahan 132
Ron Kirkpatrick David Mitchell 133
Smiles from the Editors Colin Monteath and Maurice Conway 138
New Zealand Alpine Club (Inc.) National Committee and Executive Officers 140

Cover photo: The Upper Cook Valley, South
Westland. Rob Rowlands.
Frontispiece: ‘Dekcuf, Mt. Eden quarry,
Auckland. Pete Giles.
Opposite page: Mts. Unicorn and Dilemma
from the air. Dave Bamford.
Pages 8-9: Mts. Cook and Tasman from
the summit of Nun’s Veil.
Dennis Stephenson.
Page 144: Bowen Falls, Milford Sound.
Ron Kirkpatrick.